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February 13, 2015

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The Captain

The Captain
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Re: Bottom Refinishing

Answer: The Hard Racing Copper Bronze over the 2000E is a professional way to finish a wood bottom. The 2000E is a 2 part epoxy and cannot be put over a 1 part like Hard Racing Bronze. There is no need to remove the bronze completely, sand with 80/100 in an oscillating sander make minor repairs with epoxy or 257 filler, recoat with the Bronze. If you feel the 2000E is severely damaged then I would remove it and start over. Make sure you have the Hard Racing Bronze and not the anti-fouling bronze, only anti-fouling can recoat antifouling products. BoatLife works well as a seam filler, compresses and can squeeze out if the plank swell.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:10 PM

Bottom Refinishing

Question: I want to repaint and do some minor repairs to the bottom of my ’63 Chris Craft ski boat. As I looked at the bottom it appears to have the bronze racing bottom paint and then it looks like below the inter coat of bottom paint is an Interlux 2000E finish. Can I remove just the bronze bottom paint and then recoat with additional 2000E in place or would you suggest that I use a paint stripper like the Interlux 299 to remove the paint and then lightly sand and refinish with 2000E before applying the new coat of bottom paint? I have a few small gaps between a couple of planks, would you recommend that I use BoatLife or some other product to fill the small gaps?

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:09 PM

Re: Paint Prep

Answer: We use Dawn for almost all grease cutting needs. Scrub with a brush, high pressure spray to get into the cracks and crevices. If you feel like oil is still in the wood, use Smith’s CPES as a primer. It will penetrate the oil and wood fibers, this seems to be the best solution on old wood for improved adhesion. I would allow a week or so to dry depending on the humidity levels after the wash, a fan will help.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:09 PM

Paint Prep

Question: I recently purchased a 1963 Chris Craft custom ski boat. Can you give me a tip or suggestions on how you guys clean the bilge area and the inside of the bottom of the boats for preparation for painting? Have you found that a certain type of chemical and then spraying out the bottom with water is a good method and if so how long should one allow the inside to dry prior to painting?

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:08 PM

Re: Prop Size and Pitch

Answer: OK, the propeller should be tuned to the engine, allowing the engine RPM to be in the proper operating range at Wide Open Throttle. A gear reduction transmission changes this ratio, while lowering the RPM for reduces fuel use. Could you give me the HP (should be 185) Max RPM (should be 4400) gear reduction (on transmission tag) and the speed you would like to cruise. Your 13/10’s are small, a better prop for best efficiency and performance will come from this design information. We may be able to use a 4 blade for reduced vibration or the standard 3 blade may work just as well.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:08 PM

Prop Size and Pitch

Question: Hope you can help me with a prop (wheel) question. I have a ’63 Chris Craft Roamer, Custom Comet with twin 283H’s. According to the original invoice, this boat came with 3639 and 3638 wheels. What is the size and pitch for that numbered prop? I’ve got 13/10’s on there and they seem like they spin too much.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:08 PM

Re: Stain Mixing

Answer: The Century you show would be 1579 with Avondire decks finished natural. Avondire is a white mahogany and was not stained only clear coats. The dark covers and king, in our shop, are treated separate from the rest of the boat. Once the sides and decks are stained and sealed, we mask the boat so the only exposed areas are the covers and king, apply 1579, and after it is completely rubbed out you then go over the fresh 1579 with Minwax Ebony stain. With a cotton rag, apply the stain and blend it to the color you desire, then remove the masking and seal the covers and king. The key is keeping the Ebony away from the other areas.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:06 PM

Stain Mixing

Question: I am refreshing my ’42 Century Utility and would like to darken the covering boards and King. I know that Interlux 1579 is proper for hull. It’s my understanding I can mix 1579 with black paint to darken. If so, what black paint and ratio? Or is there another filler stain that is dark enough, possibly Gar Wood stain? I was also told that deck boards should receive Walnut stain. If yes, dark or light? I can only find Sandusky Walnut, is this proper?

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:06 PM

Re: Hardtop Restoration

Answer: I looked at the photos of your boat, I will try to answer with what I think you have. The wheel house sides are probably teak ply with solid teak details around the windows, the cabin top is solid mahogany frames with mahogany ply for the top, your deck is not clear to me, if you say it is teak we will make that call. If the veneer is off the sides of the wheelhouse, we usually route ¼ and install new solid teak. This is a simple repair and looks great when refinished. The cabin top, if it is rough and not able to be refinished would be removed and replaced with mahogany plywood. Lyman did offer teak options, an upgrade from the original mahogany plywood. The problem today is the veneer is so thin it is hard to sand without sanding through, a tough refinish as well as a tough install. My Lyman has a teak deck laid over the original plywood, ½ thick with an extension to cover the edge under the rub rail. Many Lymans’ have a blend of teak and mahogany, decks to wheelhouse, they always look great.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:05 PM

Hardtop Restoration

Question: I bought a ’69 Lyman 22 ft. hardtop last year from you that was on Lake St. Claire, MI. I want to restore the hardtop which is teak. The deck is teak plywood and not original. I’m not crazy about the deck color and quality. If I am refinishing the hardtop what are my best options on restoring the deck? Leave it? Change to new teak ply or teak solid plank. Change to mahogany? Would mahogany look funny next to a teak hardtop?

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 6:05 PM

Re: Replacement Planks

Answer: Chris Craft used straight grained Philippine Mahogany. We have genuine Mahogany that is very close.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:19 PM

Re: Varnish - Type and Process

Answer: We use Z-Spar Captains 1015 for most finish coats. We have had great luck with the 2015 Flagship, heavier body and had nice gloss. There are several good quality long oil varnishes, the true marine varnish is the only product that will give you the rich color and durability. Some restorers are shooting clear coats over the traditional varnish for a tougher finish. Yes we block and buff varnish to remove dust as well as tipping strokes or following touch ups. There is thought that as the UV filters rise and cross during cure, you can damage the outer finish causing lost durability. We have not run long tests on this occurrence.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:18 PM

Re: Wooden Boats and Salt Water

Answer: Wood boats hold up well to salt, all of the early runabouts were used in salt. It is harder on the chrome and the salt water in the engine will shorten the cast iron life. We recommend putting fresh water cooling on older engines for better durability.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:17 PM

Re: Seam Caulk Advice

Answer: Silicone caulk is like the plague to a wood boat. The silicone will forever cause fish eyes in all the marine finishes that would be applied as maintenance coats. The use of silicone is never appropriate on a wood boat for any application. That being said, live seams do move and do need to be touched up periodically. We have always used BoatLife for the color, with varnish over it the color looks great with the stained mahogany. The deck seams we always paint as a last stop in the finish process. Chris Craft did use a white caulk, when you varnish the boat the white goes yellow and you end up painting the seams for the bright white look. The 5200 is a tough removal, great product, hard to service, to do a great job we would use a laminate trimmer with a 1/8” bit and remove the live seams freehand, BE CAREFUL, practice on another piece of wood. The 5200 will gum up, a friend with a shop vac as you cut will help. Mask the fill joints with BoatLife, you can seal the joints if you want, use your finger or spoon to make the joint slightly concave, remove the masking immediately. Let the BoatLife dry, sand the deck with 320 or 400 and recoat the decks, 2 coats, stripe the new and old seams and it will look brand new. If the seams are a problem in small areas you can just do small areas with the varnish and buff the repair to blend. Try a small area first.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:16 PM

Seam Caulk Advice

Question: I have restored a 1955 18’ Chris Craft Continental and I am having problems with the live seams in the deck. I used 3M 5200 and probably that was not the wisest choice because some of the seam caulk is separating from one side of the plank. I looked at one article that said to use BoatLife white caulk. I am just wondering why a premium grade of Latex with Silicone would not work. It is very flexible, won’t mildew and the silicone will help with adhesion. Deck is fine and has 10 coats of varnish on hull and deck. 5200 bottom and mostly refastened with silicone bronze.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:16 PM

Teak Protection

Q: I have a 1974 Penn Yan Avenger Fly bridge and the rear deck has teak rails. I know that teak oil is one way to treat the wood and varnish is another. Is another choice available to make those rails shine like glass and not grey out after a month like they do with oil or peel like varnish? I am a member of the Penn Yan Antique and Classic boat club and that is subject of discussion a lot. Is it possible to apply varnish or another product on the wood to give it that High Gloss shine that will last year after year and not have the constant care that varnish requires?

A: Teak finishing is a tough job, your correct that oil has a short life and gloss finishes peel off. The issue is teak is an oily wood, nothing wants to stick to the oil permanently. I have had no experience with the 2 part finishes, I have seen them used with some good durability. Sikkens makes Cetol marine finish. The system is based on 3-4 coats with maintenance coats as needed, probably yearly in FL. They have a matte and gloss finish, easy to apply and easy to remove if you get some peeling. Wipe down the teak with Acetone just prior to putting on the finish, this helps remove the oil for better adhesion.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:14 PM

Side Plank Seams

Q: How do you get rid of the seams between the side planks? Does it take multiple coats of varnish or do you fill in the seams with some sort of epoxy? The spaces on my boat are very small.

A: Having small gaps is good. The wood moves as moisture is absorbed, gaps will tighten as the planks expand. Bottom planks can move 1/8, side planks not so much. When you fill the gaps, as the planks expands it will push out the filler or in the case of an epoxy, it may just crush the fibers of the wood. We do see the filler stains and varnish do some filling, (and it pushes out) but on a boat that is not totally glued together using modern assembly methods the movement is normal, dry to wet. Best not try to interrupt Mother Nature.

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:13 PM

Replacement Planks

Question: I need a replacement plank for a 1955 Chris Craft Capri. What kind of wood is it?

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:13 PM

Varnish - Type and Process

Question: What type of varnish do you use on your boats? Do you wet sand and buff after the final coat?

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:12 PM

Wooden Boats and Salt Water

Question: I’ve always considered buying a classic wooden boat, but will be moving to FL this year. How well will this type of boat hold up to salt water?

Posted on February 13, 2015 at 5:09 PM

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